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2024TANSANIA 2024: THE BUSH & BEACH ADVENTURE
Imagine Kilimanjaro, Serengeti, the migration of thousands of wildebeest, Ngorongoro, Stonetown on Zanzibar… there are so many spectacular things to see here, World Heritage sites, and we’ve never been there ! And all the lovely beers they have… High time we went !
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2024SVALBARD RE-LOADED
Halfway between the northern tip of Norway and the North Pole, at around 78°N lies the archipelago of Svalbard. It’s most famous and well known island is probably Spitzbergen, that’s where we started our tour.
We did this trip before, but crazy us, we wanted more ice, so this time we decided to go earlier, the middle of April. As we arrive in Longyearbjen there is definitely more snow and ice, and it is bloody cold. Temperatures are at -15°C and there is a strong wind blowing, chill factor double plus. That’s what you get !
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2023KENYA with GAMEWATCHERS SAFARIS
4 Porini Camps in 4 different parts of Kenya
Paka Kubwa means big cat in Swahili, and we saw a lot of big cats, they are cool, but we enjoyed the little cats even more. Baby lions are just the best thing to watch, especially when they are playing, fighting and running around. They are beaten in cuteness only by hyena pups, which are getting to be my top favorites.
NR.1: NAIROBI- Nairobi tented Camp
I’ve visited Kenya before, now for the first time, I’m traveling with Gamewatchers Safaris, I must say, I’m impressed. From start to finish everything worked flawlessly. We arrive late, at 10pm and take about an hour for the passport control. Edith, a lovely, friendly, very helpful lady from Gamewatchers Safaris is there to greet us, help us exchange money. We don’t really need much money, just for tips and souvenirs, everything else is included, food, drinks, flights between camps and game drives. We drive 30min on the outskirts of Nairobi to the park gate, then another 30min to camp, which is in the middle of thick bushland, we get there in the middle of the night, but all the staff is there waiting for us, if we would like dinner. No thank you, I just want to sleep. So 2 Masai guys with torches take us to our tent, see you tomorrow.
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2023A photographic tour into the Namib Desert
with Hougaard Malan
I like crazy trips, extraordinary ones. So when I saw the photos from this trip last year, and had a chance to book a spot for this year, I jumped at it. Six nights of camping in the Namib Desert, no phones, no internet, no people for miles around but our little group. Jürg loves it for the astro-photography, no light pollution at all and an amazing African sky. I am in it for the experience, for the camping and just for the adventure, I will do travel photography.
We take everything: water, petrol, food, tents, bedrolls, stretchers, firewood and booze. The latter we had to go shop ourselves, so we didn’t take along too much weight. Now what, and how much, do you drink in 6 days in the desert ? (except the water which was provided for). This led to an interesting trip to the supermarket. At the SPAR they asked us if we were having a party, so much alcohol…. Well, sort off. If we didn’t need any meat ? No the other guy is bringing the meat, we just need drinks. They helped us carry everything to the jeep, I’m not telling how much, but two guys helped us….in the end the whole SPAR knew us. Short extra stop at the liquor store for gin. Also very, very important ! Then to the hotel for our last night in „luxury“ and a super dinner at the Godenfang Restaurant. Tomorrow the adventure starts.
DAY 1
Briefing at 07:30, then breakfast. We leave at 10:00. It is a long driving day today, about 200km of desert lie ahead of us. We turn off the tarred road shortly after the airport, from now on it is sand only ! We drive in Convoy, 6 jeeps. In Nr 1 is Ruedi, who sets the tracks, in Nr 2 with driver Jandre, it’s Jürg and me and young Alex his assistant. Nr 3 is the girls car, 3 ladies and Mornay at the wheel, Nr 4 with driver Marius is the boys car with 2 guests, and Hougaard. Nr 5 is the camp chef Martinez, the best guy on the tour, and cook Andre. And in the back, Nr 6 is Dennis the concession guy, controlling us, so we behave, don’t fly drones and don’t litter.
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2023LOFOTEN’S LITTLE SISTER
ARRIVING
Senja, Norways second biggest island lies about 350km above the Polar Circle at 69° north. We arrive around 22:30, at Bardufoss airport, which suitingly is called Snowman Airport, once again a place hardly anybody knows, just the way we like it ! To be honest I didn’t know it existed until I needed a flight to Senja. We get the car, definitely a 4WD, at the SIXT desk. Okay, that’s new, the guy stays inside and we get the car key: your car is outside, deep frozen… with the motor running and the heating at 28°, to defrost I guess. We still can’t open the hatch, so we dump everything on the back seat and head for the hotel. It is minus 18 degrees or so.
HUSØY
After breakfast, and scraping ice off the car for about half an hour we leave for Senja. The drive itself is already an adventure, the weather is sunny and we drive through snowy forests, past cute red cabins, see beautiful mountain peaks gleaming white against a blue and sunny sky. This is great.
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2022THE FUNKY SAILORS ARE BACK ON THE BOAT !
DAY 1 : The Marina
Trip starts in the Eden Island Marina. We will be sailing a Moorings 4000 katamaran, pretty big I tell you ! The guys get the briefing, the girls go shopping. Takes about 2 hours, the guys were already slightly worried we took off with their credit cards. Got everything from the list, cost a small fortune, and just a few minor mistakes, coke zero instead of normal coke and one other bad one, will tell you later. Thank God for the guys with the golf carts who helped us get everything to the boat.
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2022CHOBE- OKAVANGO DELTA- KALAHARI
and meerkats and a helicopter
PART 1: THE CHOBE RIVER
ATTEMPTS TO TURN ME INTO A BIRDER
Around noon the plane lands in Kasane on Botswana’s northern border, Zim & Zam are mere miles away. As we approach the land below us is very green, great rivers and lots of flooded land, they must have had lots of rain here. As there are only about 30 people on the plane the arrival procedure is fast. On we go to the Pangolin Chobe Hotel, which is a famous photo hotel. Great photo pro’s there to assist and guide us, and big lenses for us to try out. Our trip is called the Best of Botswana Photo Safari, check it out here: https://www.pangolinphoto.com/safaris/11-day-best-of-botswana-safari
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2022The ultimate Lofoten experience
A photo tour with Christian Hoiberg
Auroras or northern lights are hard to find. You preferably need to be way up north, better even to be above the polar circle, in a dark night without much light pollution, (meaning far away from everybody and everything). Then an aurora of 5+ on a scale of 10. Plus you need clear skies, which is probably the biggest problem.
So we went to the Lofoten, way up in the north of Norway, in February. The trip was postponed twice because of covid, but when Norway opened up on Feb 12th 2022 and we were offered the option to go on very short notice we said: yes please ! If this trip was meant to be, the good Lord could have given us a bit nicer weather though. We counted it all together, the sunny and not totally clouded times and we came to about 2 hrs in a whole week. We were told later that is pretty much the normal thing here, we were lucky. To be honest I’ve never had such lousy weather and in spite of that, such a fabulous time !
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2021UGANDA: Part 2
From tree climbing lions to gorillas and gorgeous lakes
TO THE QUEEN
We leave Kibale Forest for the Queen Elisabeth N.P. Soon we turn off the main road and take a mildly bumpy dirt road along crater lakes and through banana plantations. The scenery is simply the best.
We started with bomasa palms, woodlands, rainforests, followed by maize fields, high grasses, swamps, then the tea and coffee plantations and now the bananas. To be honest so far I like this part the very best. The landscape is very hilly and we keep seeing slopes full of banana trees, interspaced with little houses where colorful laundry is drying outside, kids run towards the road to wave at us. The weather is sunny and not too hot yet, it’s just perfect. All to soon we reach the main road again and are back on the highway 70 south from Fort Portal (at 1480m) to Kasese. From Fort Portal away, the Rwenzori mountains are dominantly present in the west. No snow capped peaks to be seen at the time, at over 5000m they are almost always in the clouds.
Soon after Kasese we reach our lodge on the shores of Lake George. Lots of British royalty represented here in the lakes, starting with Lake Victoria, then we passed Albert, now George and soon we will do a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel joining George and Edward. Only Charles is missing, ha ha, he probably has to die before he gets his lake.
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2021PART 1 : From the source of the river Nile to the chimpanzees in Budongo and Kibale
Where exactly is Uganda again ? It is smack in the middle of Africa. Right on the equator, flanked on the right by Kenya, on the left by the Democratic Republic of Congo. The experienced traveller will say there are better places to go for an „average“ wildlife safari. That may be true, but Uganda is sensational for gorilla and chimpanzee tracking, has great national parks, and on top of that it is the most beautiful country I’ve visited in all of southern and eastern Africa.
If I get the driver to stop to take „just landscape“ photos, something is seriously wrong ! I do people and wildlife photography ! But here I just had to stop over and over again, it is so lush and green, so spectacular and ever changing, I am so glad we booked a road trip and didn’t do the fly in&out. Beside that, it is also a very safe country to visit, with incredibly friendly people.
This is not really a „Banana Republic“, but boy they do have lots of bananas here. Call them matoke, which is also the name of our tour company: MATOKE TOURS. Lets hit the road, we’re here for a three week trip, in which we will cover almost 3000km, in an old Toyota Land cruiser with Anatoli our driver.
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2020Hike, but remember, the only way is up….baby !
The Cinque Terre in Italy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Five little coastal towns, spread out over 20km or so on the north-west coast of Italy, about 1 hour east of Genova by car. I had wanted to go there for ages but was put off by the horrendous tourist numbers, but now seems to be the right time. Because of corona their tourist numbers have dropped to one third of their normal, still more than enough if you ask me.
There are 5 towns from left to right:
Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarole and Riomaggiore.
No matter where you stay, they all have their charms and the next town is always close. You get to the next town in minutes by taking the train, the longest you’ll be on the train is 16min from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, or take it easy and hike, as we did.
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2019AN ISLAND FULL OF SURPRISES
Usually all it takes is one photo. I see it, and my mind is made up, I want to go there. Madagascar has been on my mind for a while, and as I was told to go there rather sooner than later, well there’s no better time than right now. So we went on a photo tour with Oryx Photography, with photographer Dale Morris and our Malagasy guide Nono Tianamalala. Between them these two guys made just about anything possible, and this trip one of my best photo holidays ever.
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2019Part 2: Chile
PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE
Mon 22: to Chile and Torres del Paine
It is a long and boring drive, the first 2,5 hrs so we simply sleep. We do a coffee stop at Estancia La Leona, the coffee is not too bad, and Jürg treats himself to a gigantic piece of lemon meringue pie, it is about 20cm high, no kidding ! Best of all, it really is good !
From there 1,5 hours to Esperanza for more coffee and super good empanadas, freshly made and still warm. This sounds like a gourmet trip right ?
Another 2,5 hours gets us into Chile and to our hotel, the Hosteria Pehoe, probably the most scenic lodgings in the whole park. It is located on a little island 100m off the shore of Lake Pehoe, and you can only reach it by a foot bridge. Drag along your own bags please, and do pray the bridge holds.
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2019Part 1: Argentina
Parque Nacional los Glaciares
This National Park was created in 1938 and declared a World Heritage Site in 1981. Its 726’900 hectares host 356 glaciers that cover a total ice surface of 2’600 km2. The beauty of lakes and mountains combine with spectacular glaciers to shape a divine landscape. A photographers paradise you might say. So lets go see.
Hougaard Malan is the best landscape photographer I know. I’ve travelled with quite a few photographers, and each and every one taught me something, but from Hougaard I learnt most. So when he asked us if we wanted to come to Patagonia for 2 weeks in April, and gave us just about 2 days to think it over, it took us 2 minutes to say: yes please !
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2019The Dalmatian Pelicans of Kerkini
I love wildlife photography, but I really don’t do birds.
Well, maybe there’s one exception… if they are extremely colorful, very big, or come in huge numbers. One day, I saw just one picture of a strange animal with orange around the eyes, and a sort of wild and hairy hairstyle… Shit, it’s a bird. A pelican. I just had to go and photograph one.
So I did some research. These are Dalmatian pelicans, they are the rarest of the world’s 7 pelican species, and they are BIG ! The second biggest bird species on the planet : 1.2m tall, weight 6-10kg and a wingspread of up to 3.2m. And lucky me, they are not so far away ! About 10% of the mating pairs are found in northeastern Greece, close to the Bulgarian border, on a lake called Kerkini. The name Vasilis kept showing up in the reviews I read, so I decided we needed him too. A few months later, when everybody else was getting ready for the skiing season, we boarded a plane to Thessaloniki, Greece.
To photograph birds…
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2018A leopard a day keeps the doctor away !
We were in Zambia in 2011, nobody knew where it was…
We returned 7 years later, still nobody knows where it is !
I believe it is the best kept secret in Africa, this country is a gem, with beautiful national parks, lots of wildlife, gorgeous lodges and friendly people. I promised in 2011 I’d return and I am so happy I did ! The first night we stayed in Lusaka at the very cool trendy, funky Latitude 15, it’s like living in an art gallery. This is the place to stay ! and ist only 30 min from the airport in the quiet suburb of Kabulonga.
Our safari in South Luangwa
This time we travelled in the company of some good friends, and our pro-photographer Isak Pretorius, who was once again willing to share some of his secrets with us, show us his favourite place, and help us get even better pictures than last time. That part should be easy because last time we were still shooting on fully automatic and didn’t have a clue about photography.
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2018Namibia in the “RAINY SEASON”
Well it’s not all that rainy, just a lot of clouds and thunderstorms building up, we only got rained on once… or twice, and it usually clears real quick. The good thing is that the backgrounds are simply amazing with all these clouds !
That is, as long as we had them… which was just about during our first week.
But then, we really needed clear skies for the night shots at the quiver tree forest, so all turned out rather well this holiday if I may say.
And the company was brilliant of course, us doing a private tour with Hougaard Malan and his lovely girlfriend Marlee, who turned out to be my favourite model !
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2018ICELAND 2018: 50 shades of blue
We return to “winter-wonderland” only 2 years after our first trip. This time in the company of my sister & brother-in-law, and in possesion of our own 4×4 Jeep Cherokee, no limits to the driving- and photography times ! If only the weather plays along and my sis doesn’t kill me…
P.S. Click on the blue links in the following text for more information
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2017MASAI MARA PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARI
I love this landscape of rolling hills, big plains dotted with lonely trees, an escarpment in the background, rivers like green snakes winding through, and crossing these rivers, especially one big river called the Mara, is the wildebeest migration, and that’s what we are here for.
Our camp is lovely, situated on the bank of the Mara River at a bend, so maybe if we’re lucky we’ll get a private crossing right in front of camp. Check out the webpage : www.entim-mara.com. Before we leave for our first gamedrive a dazzle of zebra gather on the little flat plain just across camp. Will they cross ? Good thing we didn’t wait, they told us the next morning they crossed at 03:30, would have been a long wait !
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2016Farne Islands – Puffin & Angels Photo Workshop
Believe me, once you see one you are hooked ! Puffins are the most adorable little birds, they are about the size of a duck and look somewhat like a penguin with a big round orange beak. They are cute just sitting there, truly amazing when in flight, and real funny when they land, putting out big orange feet, landing and half falling down, like they haven’t quite mastered the act of a proper landing yet.
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2016ZIMBABWE’S MANA POOLS in the green season
So here we go, 5 days in Mana Pools in a mobile camp. It will be set up for us, and after we leave there will be no traces of us ever having been there. Leave only foot prints, take only photo’s. And that’s exactly what we are going to do ! Beware : don’t try any of the things we do here in any other place in Africa, this is not a “normal safari”!
DAY 1 : WHEN THE TOUGH GET GOING
At noon we reach Harare. We get a visa for 30$ each, then move on to domestic departures. We then wait in the very old, very worn down, and very deserted departure hall, what better to do than have our first G&T.
Another 1hr flight, this time in a 14-seater, gets us to a dirt airstrip in the middle of no where. It is deserted. The camp manager from nearby Chikwenya Camp comes to pick us up, our Humphrey is no where to be seen and we can’t reach him or the camp, not on phone or sat phone, this is weird. We relax on the deck, enjoy the brilliant view, have a few beers, watch a small herd of elephants walk by. At 17:30 we decide to spend the night here, not that we have much of a choice without a jeep and driver ….
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2016Because we liked Iceland so much …
Here are 10 reasons to visit Iceland in winter:
1. Reykjavik, the smallest capital city in the world. A small town with a big soul.
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2016ICY ICELAND – WEEK 2
Our trip continues, the start of week 2. Will it be as good as the first week ? Will we see more auroras ? One more day in JÖKULSARLON, one more go at the beach, one more ice cave, then we move on to the highlands and into the cold.
DAY 8
As usual our plans change, so does the weather, it is snowing again as we go for breakfast, damn, damn, damn. At 9:00 we do decide to give it a go. At the beach there are only about 4 pieces of ice in the water, so we decide to go to the lagoon. We climb to the lookout point and get some lovely shots of the lagoon all covered in a fresh layer of snow. We move to a second spot, the light on the mountains in the back gets better. We even stay when a snow storm hits us, we are the hardcore landscape photographers.
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2016ICY ICELAND – WEEK 1
A PHOTO TOUR
with Hougaard Malan & Isak Pretorius
There are no direct flights to Reykjavik for us in winter, because all the “normal” people go there in summer. We leave on January 29th, the sun will rise at around 10:00 and set at 17:00 and won’t get higher than 10 degrees above the horizon. The bad thing is we can’t pronounce any of the names of the places we are going to see, and we’ll barely have 9 hrs of light per day. The good thing is we can do sunrise shots and sleep late.
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2016My personal favourites
As always it is hard to pick 10 when you have so many to choose from. These are my personal favourites for 2015.
10
Because I’m Dutch, and because I love tulips. From the first day I can buy them, even if it is still winter, I feel spring is coming. The Keukenhof near Amsterdam is a sensational place to photograph these beautiful flowers, they have hundreds of variaties there. I love the colour and the spiky edge on this one.
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2015PART 2 of the INDIAN CANYONS PHOTO TOUR with Christian Heeb
So we saw the Grand Canyon, did a photo shoot with a native Indian model, we photographed Antilope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Rimrock Hoodoos, Monument Valley and Canyonlands N.P, and that was only the first week. We were afraid it couldn’t get better…. but it did !
DAY 7: around Moab
It is rather hard getting up at 05:15 but we don’t want to be sissies, besides, I saw a photo of the Dead Horse Outlook and it looked real good. Christian drove much too fast so we get there in the pitch dark and decide to do some stars and light up a little tree in the foreground. The whole thing proceded a little messy, everybody pressed their shutter at a different time, and so one gets a lot of light, others little, it’s just practise ! As we get too much light for the stars to really show we proceed to the canyons rim. This is probably the best outlook I’ve seen so far, this is really special, I just love the scenery here.
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2015We met in a bar. In the gigantic casino in the lobby of the Las Vegas hotel. All around us poker, blackjack, roulette, machines jingling, bells ringing, the noise level was deafening, people all around us. We are 8, the boss is the guy with the hat, his wife is the manager, maybe she’s the real boss ? The other 6 that’s us: two German and four Swiss amateurs, and we are ready to learn from him…. how to shoot…
Shoot a really good photo ! Let’s get on the road and start the :
INDIAN CANYONS PHOTO TOUR
with Christian Heeb
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2015SAN FRANCISCO to LAS VEGAS
ARRIVING
Driving from the airport we had to cross the Golden Gate Bridge to get to our B&B in Sausalito. Easier said than done, we missed a turn off and did an involuntary sightseeing trip of downtown San Francisco, uphill, downhill, every crossing a 4-way-stop, it took ages. We finally did make it back on the Hwy 101 and onto the bridge.
An insider photo tip to turn left and go up the hill in the Marin Headlands to get some really good views is no secret anymore. There was almost more traffic there then driving through the town at rush hour. We were told to go photograph the bridge as soon as it as visible, it would mostly be covered in clouds or fog. We had clears skies every day and night ! From there we went to our B&B, the Gables Inn in Sausalito. I can only recommend the place, a warm welcome, nice room, and lucky again: wine and cheese every afternoon from 17:00-19:00. We dump the bags in the room and go have a drink, with all the cheese we ate we decide to skip dinner.
SIGHTSEEING IN SAN FRANCISCO
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2015SPOILT FOR LIFE in 5 days at MALA MALA
DAY 1 – first impressions
I am a photographer. I love coming to Mala Mala. This time I am bringing my friend Susi, she’s never been to Africa before. I am pretty sure that after this experience she will love Africa and love going on safari. The one down thing: she’ll be spoilt for life.
I don’t know which of us is more nervous, she or me. Did I, in my enthusiasm, overdo it with all my stories of this wonderful place? All turns out well, she loves the plane ride from Johannesburg, and already wants to photograph the impala at the airstrip, through the planes window! I barely managed to stop her, and this only after I promised her loads of them, at very close range. Which wasn’t a very hard promise to keep.
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2015Norway in a nutshell
DAY 1: From white to green
From Longyearben we flew via Tromsö and Oslo to Bergen and left our white world behind us. Bergen has 270 days of rain per year. So naturally it rained when we got there. We have a hotel just across from Bryggen, the oldest part of town along the east shore of the Vägen Harbour, long leaning rows of gabled, mostly wooden houses, looks totally cool, let’s get outside with a camera. By the time we get out the light is gone. So a few hours later I sent Jürg out for some night shots…splendid idea !
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2015SVALBARD PHOTO TOUR – Mai 2015
We are on Svalbard in Longyearben, the capital, an ugly little town in the Isfjord on the west coast of the island of Spitsbergen at latitude 78°N. Only 1338km to the North Pole! They say there are more polar bears here than inhabitants (about 2200), so our chances of finding one should be pretty good.
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2015What could be the benefit of being at home after a knee surgery? Spontaneously nothing comes to my mind, as there is pain, immobility and every little thing takes much longer than usual.
But if I wouldn’t have been at home at that time, I wouldn’t have been able to take the amazing pictures you will see in this blog.
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2014PILATUS :
Photo workshop with NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC photographers:
Florian & Salomon Schulz
We know this guy, went to a multi media show he did on his travels to the Arctic last year, and we’re definitely hooked !
We visited an afternoon workshop last year, and as we saw this chance…we took it. Two days on the Pilatus, a 2132m/7000 ft high mountain in central Switzerland, learning from the pro’s and the best thing is, we are going to do night shoots and learn to do time lapse, Juergs favourites !
So we left home a little early, hoping to take some photos before it got too crowded. An hour’s drive got us to Alpnachstad. The exit is well posted and the parking lot was easily found and half empty, good for us ! All right maybe this was because the weather was getting from average to rather lousy…. We got our tickets for the cogwheel railway. It goes up all 30 minutes, and we had of course just missed it, so we had plenty of time for a coffee before we could at last get up there.
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2014This is a mountain restaurant, not like many others that I’ve seen. Location, location, location !
This tiny restaurant at about 1450m above sea level is perched like an eagles nest at the bottom of a steep cliff. It is precariously set at a small ledge, from where there is a 600m drop down to the valley, rather a steep drop I must add. The views of course are no less than spectacular, and their chäs rösti, (a swiss national dish like a big hash brown with melted cheese on top) is so good, it alone is worth the hike up there. So we started our hike…
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2014MALA MALA : a photographers paradise
Mala Mala is a private game reserve in the Sabi Sand, bordering the Krueger Park in South Africa. I am a little prejudiced after three trips in 15 months, but I believe it is one of the best game parks in South Africa, if not the best, especially if you are into photography. I truly love to be here ! This place oozes old style British colonial charm, it is the old Africa, as I remember it from my youth in Kenya, and the wildlife sightings are phenomenal. I don’t know if our ranger Joe was so good, or if we were so lucky, probably a bit of both, but we have never had so many absolutely fantastic sightings, seen so many cubs and pups and young animals as we did this time. Maybe the champagne we started to drink at breakfast ( for good luck ) did work after all !
Our first game drive started with a beautiful eagle, followed by a tiny elephant, this little one was so small it could easily walk under mums belly. It stumbled along, bumped into its mothers legs, tried to somehow use its trunk. We sat and watched for the longest time, totally adorable !
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2014Mashatu is in the Limpopo Valley, in the Tuli Block Game Reserve. That is on the eastern side of Botswana, like a big triangle jutting out into South Africa. It borders South Africa to its south-east and Zimbabwe to the north-east. We’ve been here before, little over a year ago. It was so absolutely fabulous that we had to come back, come back and share it with friends.
So we booked a photo workshop with C4 Images, hoping to learn a little more and improve our photography. And we did ! Plus we made some new friends, we had a great time and really enjoyed our stay at the Mashatu tented camp.
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2014Sylt, the island of the rich and beautiful. They come here to “see and be seen”, don’t dare show up in any clothing without fancy designer labels on them, and don’t leave the Porsche at home !
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