Wildlife

POLAR BEARS AT 78°N

SVALBARD RE-LOADED

Halfway between the northern tip of Norway and the North Pole, at around 78°N lies the archipelago of Svalbard. It’s most famous and well known island is probably Spitzbergen, that’s where we started our tour.

The two of us, posing in front of the Virgo parked in the ice

We did this trip before, but crazy us, we wanted more ice, so this time we decided to go earlier, the middle of April. As we arrive in Longyearbjen there is definitely more snow and ice, and it is bloody cold. Temperatures are at -15°C and there is a strong wind blowing, chill factor double plus. That’s what you get ! 

We got what we wanted…

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PAKA KUBWA, the big cat safari

KENYA with GAMEWATCHERS SAFARIS

4 Porini Camps in 4 different parts of Kenya

Paka Kubwa means big cat in Swahili, and we saw a lot of  big cats, they are cool, but we enjoyed the little cats even more. Baby lions are just the best thing to watch, especially when they are playing, fighting and running around. They are beaten in cuteness only by hyena pups, which are getting to be my top favorites.

NR.1:  NAIROBI- Nairobi tented Camp

I’ve visited Kenya before, now for the first time, I’m traveling with Gamewatchers Safaris, I must say, I’m impressed. From start to finish everything worked flawlessly. We arrive late, at 10pm and take about an hour for the passport control. Edith, a lovely, friendly, very helpful lady from Gamewatchers Safaris is there to greet us, help us exchange money. We don’t really need much money, just for tips and souvenirs, everything else is included, food, drinks, flights between camps and game drives. We drive 30min on the outskirts of Nairobi to the park gate, then another 30min to camp, which is in the middle of thick bushland, we get there in the middle of the night, but all the staff is there waiting for us, if we would like dinner. No thank you, I just want to sleep. So 2 Masai guys with torches take us to our tent, see you tomorrow.

The lounge area at Nairobi Tented Camp

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SAND LOVERS ONLY

A photographic tour into the Namib Desert

with Hougaard Malan

A trip into the sand, no roads, no tracks, just sand

I like crazy trips, extraordinary ones. So when I saw the photos from this trip last year, and had a chance to book a spot for this year, I jumped at it. Six nights of camping in the Namib Desert, no phones, no internet, no people for miles around but our little group. Jürg loves it for the astro-photography, no light pollution at all and an amazing African sky. I am in it for the experience, for the camping and just for the adventure, I will do travel photography. 

We take everything: water, petrol, food, tents, bedrolls, stretchers, firewood and booze. The latter we had to go shop ourselves, so we didn’t take along too much weight. Now what, and how much, do you drink in 6 days in the desert ? (except the water which was provided for). This led to an interesting trip to the supermarket. At the SPAR they asked us if we were having a party, so much alcohol…. Well, sort off. If we didn’t need any meat ? No the other guy is bringing the meat, we just need drinks. They helped us carry everything to the jeep, I’m not telling how much, but two guys helped us….in the end the whole SPAR knew us. Short extra stop at the liquor store for gin. Also very, very important ! Then to the hotel for our last night in „luxury“ and a super dinner at the Godenfang Restaurant. Tomorrow the adventure starts.

DAY 1

Briefing at 07:30, then breakfast. We leave at 10:00. It is a long driving day today, about 200km of desert lie ahead of us. We turn off the tarred road shortly after the airport, from now on it is sand only ! We drive in Convoy, 6 jeeps. In Nr 1 is Ruedi, who sets the tracks, in Nr 2 with driver Jandre, it’s Jürg and me and young Alex his assistant. Nr 3 is the girls car, 3 ladies and Mornay at the wheel, Nr 4 with driver Marius is the boys car with 2 guests, and Hougaard. Nr 5 is the camp chef Martinez, the best guy on the tour, and cook Andre. And in the back, Nr 6 is Dennis the concession guy, controlling us, so we behave, don’t fly drones and don’t litter.

The start of an adventure

The start of an adventure

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BEST OF BOTSWANA – a pangolin photo tour

CHOBE- OKAVANGO DELTA- KALAHARI

and meerkats and a helicopter

PART 1: THE CHOBE RIVER

ATTEMPTS TO TURN ME INTO A BIRDER

Around noon the plane lands in Kasane on Botswana’s northern border, Zim & Zam are mere miles away. As we approach the land below us is very green, great rivers and lots of flooded land, they must have had lots of rain here. As there are only about 30 people on the plane the arrival procedure is fast. On we go to the Pangolin Chobe Hotel, which is a famous photo hotel. Great photo pro’s there to assist and guide us, and big lenses for us to try out. Our trip is called the Best of Botswana Photo Safari, check it out here:  https://www.pangolinphoto.com/safaris/11-day-best-of-botswana-safari

The Pangolin Chobe Hotel

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UGANDA: Bananas, Boda Boda and BIG apes

UGANDA: Part 2

From tree climbing lions to gorillas and gorgeous lakes

TO THE QUEEN

We leave Kibale Forest for the Queen Elisabeth N.P. Soon we turn off the main road and take a mildly bumpy dirt road along crater lakes and through banana plantations. The scenery is simply the best. 

Bananas, bananas, bananas

We started with bomasa palms, woodlands, rainforests, followed by maize fields, high grasses, swamps, then the tea and coffee plantations and now the bananas. To be honest so far I like this part the very best. The landscape is very hilly and we keep seeing slopes full of banana trees, interspaced with little houses where colorful laundry is drying outside, kids run towards the road to wave at us. The weather is sunny and not too hot yet, it’s just perfect. All to soon we reach the main road again and are back on the highway 70 south from Fort Portal (at 1480m) to Kasese. From Fort Portal away, the Rwenzori mountains are dominantly present in the west. No snow capped peaks to be seen at the time, at over 5000m they are almost always in the clouds. 

From dense forest in Kibale to papyrus and candelabra in Queen

Soon after Kasese we reach our lodge on the shores of Lake George. Lots of British royalty represented here in the lakes, starting with Lake Victoria, then we passed Albert, now George and soon we will do a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel joining George and Edward. Only Charles is missing, ha ha, he probably has to die before he gets his lake. 

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UGANDA: the green pearl of Africa

PART 1 : From the source of the river Nile to the chimpanzees in Budongo and Kibale

Where exactly is Uganda again ? It is smack in the middle of Africa. Right on the equator, flanked on the right by Kenya, on the left by the Democratic Republic of Congo. The experienced traveller will say there are better places to go for an „average“ wildlife safari. That may be true, but Uganda is sensational for gorilla and chimpanzee tracking,  has great national parks, and on top of that it is the most beautiful country I’ve visited in all of southern and eastern Africa.

This is a matoke country

If I get the driver to stop to take „just landscape“ photos, something is seriously wrong ! I do people and wildlife photography ! But here I just had to stop over and over again, it is so lush and green, so spectacular and ever changing, I am so glad we booked a road trip and didn’t do the fly in&out. Beside that, it is also a very safe country to visit, with incredibly friendly people.

This is not really a „Banana Republic“, but boy they do have lots of bananas here. Call them matoke, which is also the name of our tour company: MATOKE TOURS. Lets hit the road, we’re here for a three week trip, in which we will cover almost 3000km, in an old Toyota Land cruiser with Anatoli our driver.

The trip

Anatoli, our driver

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Madagascar

AN ISLAND FULL OF SURPRISES 

Usually all it takes is one photo. I see it, and my mind is made up, I want to go there. Madagascar has been on my mind for a while, and as I was told to go there rather sooner than later, well there’s no better time than right now. So we went on a photo tour with Oryx Photography, with  photographer Dale Morris and our Malagasy guide Nono Tianamalala. Between them these two guys made just about anything possible, and this trip one of my best photo holidays ever.

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THE PELICAN WHISPERER

The Dalmatian Pelicans of Kerkini

I love wildlife photography, but I really don’t do birds.

Well, maybe there’s one exception… if they are extremely colorful, very big, or come in huge numbers. One day, I saw just one picture of a strange animal with orange around the eyes, and a sort of wild and hairy hairstyle… Shit, it’s a bird. A pelican. I just had to go and photograph one.

A photo like this really got me going

So I did some research. These are Dalmatian pelicans, they are the rarest of the world’s 7 pelican species, and they are BIG ! The second biggest bird species on the planet : 1.2m tall, weight 6-10kg and a wingspread of up to 3.2m. And lucky me, they are not so far away ! About 10% of the mating pairs are found in northeastern Greece, close to the Bulgarian border, on a lake called Kerkini. The name Vasilis  kept showing up in the reviews I read, so I decided we needed him too. A few months later, when everybody else was getting ready for the skiing season, we boarded a plane to Thessaloniki, Greece. 

To photograph birds…

But very cool and very big birds !

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Zambia, the hidden gem

A leopard a day keeps the doctor away !

We were in Zambia in 2011, nobody knew where it was…

Relaxing in a sausage tree

We returned 7 years later, still nobody knows where it is !

I believe it is the best kept secret in Africa, this country is a gem, with beautiful national parks, lots of wildlife, gorgeous lodges and friendly people. I promised in 2011 I’d return and I am so happy I did ! The first night we stayed in Lusaka at the very cool trendy, funky Latitude 15, it’s like living in an art gallery. This is the place to stay !  and ist only 30 min from the airport in the  quiet suburb of Kabulonga.

Our safari in South Luangwa

We spent 4 nights at Mfuwe lodge then 4 at Chindeni camp

This time we travelled in the company of some good friends, and our pro-photographer Isak Pretorius, who was once again willing to share some of his secrets with us, show us his favourite place, and help us get even better pictures than last time. That part should be easy because last time we were still shooting on fully automatic and didn’t have a clue about photography.

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Meet me in the Mara

 MASAI MARA PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARI

Ready for the wildebeest migration

I love this landscape of rolling hills, big plains dotted with lonely trees, an escarpment in the background, rivers like green snakes winding through, and crossing these rivers, especially one big river called the Mara, is the wildebeest migration, and that’s what we are here for.

Wildebeest crossing

Our camp is lovely, situated on the bank of the Mara River at a bend, so maybe if we’re lucky we’ll get a private crossing right in front of camp. Check out the webpage : www.entim-mara.com. Before we leave for our first gamedrive a dazzle of zebra gather on the little flat plain just across camp. Will they cross ? Good thing we didn’t wait, they told us the next morning they crossed at 03:30, would have been a long wait !

Our very big and comfortable tent

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Puffins and Angels

Farne Islands – Puffin & Angels Photo Workshop

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Believe me, once you see one you are hooked ! Puffins are the most adorable little birds, they are about the size of a duck and look somewhat like a penguin with a big round orange beak. They are cute just sitting there, truly amazing when in flight, and real funny when they land, putting out big orange feet, landing and half falling down, like they haven’t quite mastered the act of a proper landing yet.

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Happy landing

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RATTRAYS, BIG 5 or CUBS ?

Mala Mala is just about the best place for wildlife photography. This time we got lucky, upgrade to Rattrays, which is very, very nice ! Plus we got to drive with my favourite ranger, and because there were so few people around we even got a private jeep. Nothing can keep me in camp now, however nice it is !

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Welcome to Rattrays

 

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Our room

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and our veranda

Finding the Big 5 is not an easy thing to do. Unless you come here ! Usually by day 2 you will have found them. Same for us, within 2 game drives we saw them all.

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GOING GREEN…

ZIMBABWE’S MANA POOLS in the green season

So here we go, 5 days in Mana Pools in a mobile camp. It will be set up for us, and after we leave there will be no traces of us ever having been there. Leave only foot prints, take only photo’s. And that’s exactly what we are going to do ! Beware :  don’t try any of the things we do here in any other place in Africa, this is not a “normal safari”!

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And this is what it is all about

DAY 1 : WHEN THE TOUGH GET GOING

At noon we reach Harare. We get a visa for 30$ each, then move on to domestic departures. We then wait in the very old, very worn down, and very deserted departure hall, what better to do than have our first G&T.

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First round of G&T

Another 1hr flight, this time in a 14-seater, gets us to a dirt airstrip in the middle of no where. It is deserted. The camp manager from nearby Chikwenya Camp comes to pick us up, our Humphrey is no where to be seen and we can’t reach him or the camp, not on phone or sat phone, this is weird. We relax on the deck, enjoy the brilliant view, have a few beers, watch a small herd of elephants walk by. At 17:30 we decide to spend the night here, not that we have much of a choice without a jeep and driver ….

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My TOP 10 for 2015

My personal favourites

As always it is hard to pick 10 when you have so many to choose from. These are my personal favourites for 2015.

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Because I’m Dutch, and because I love tulips. From the first day I can buy them, even if it is still winter, I feel spring is coming. The Keukenhof  near Amsterdam is a sensational place to photograph these beautiful flowers, they have hundreds of variaties there. I love the colour and the spiky edge on this one.

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5 DAYS ON SAFARI

SPOILT FOR LIFE in 5 days at MALA MALA

DAY 1 – first impressions

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Elephant crossing

I am a photographer. I love coming to Mala Mala. This time I am bringing my friend Susi, she’s never been to Africa before. I am pretty sure that after this experience she will love Africa and love going on safari. The one down thing: she’ll be spoilt for life.

I don’t know which of us is more nervous, she or me. Did I, in my enthusiasm, overdo it with all my stories of this wonderful place? All turns out well, she loves the plane ride from Johannesburg, and already wants to photograph the impala at the airstrip, through the planes window! I barely managed to stop her, and this only after I promised her loads of them, at very close range. Which wasn’t a very hard promise to keep.

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As promised, impala at close range

 

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WILL WE FIND A POLAR BEAR?

SVALBARD PHOTO TOUR – Mai 2015

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We are on Svalbard in Longyearben, the capital, an ugly little town in the Isfjord on the west coast of the island of Spitsbergen at latitude 78°N. Only 1338km to the North Pole! They say there are more polar bears here than inhabitants (about 2200), so our chances of finding one should be pretty good.

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Knee surgery and birds of prey

What could be the benefit of being at home after a knee surgery? Spontaneously nothing comes to my mind, as there is pain, immobility and every little thing takes much longer than usual.

But if I wouldn’t have been at home at that time, I wouldn’t have been able to take the amazing pictures you will see in this blog.

 

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red kite

 

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Cheetah or Hyena ? Which do you like best ?

Cheetah or Hyena ?

Which do you like best ? I believe most of you will spontaneously go for the cheetah, the sleek, athletic hunter, as compared to the hyena, the not so pretty and oddly proportioned hunter and scavenger, which even in Walt Disney movies is pictured as an ugly, stealing coward. But what if we look at the cubs ? All small animals are adorable, but as my ranger told me he was a big fan of the hyenas I didn’t quite believe him. That was till we got to the hyena den…

 Judge for yourselves, I bet you’ll have a hard time deciding !

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Cheetah…

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or Hyena ?

P.S. I am very proud and honoured that this blog is also featured as a blog for  Africa Geographic

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MALA MALA MAGIC

MALA MALA : a photographers paradise

Mala Mala is a private game reserve in the Sabi Sand, bordering the Krueger Park in South Africa. I am a little prejudiced after three trips in 15 months, but I believe it is one of the best game parks in South Africa, if not the best, especially if you are into photography. I truly love to be here ! This place oozes old style British colonial charm, it is the old Africa, as I remember it from my youth in Kenya, and the wildlife sightings are phenomenal. I don’t know if our ranger Joe was so good, or if we were so lucky, probably a bit of both, but we have never had so many absolutely fantastic sightings, seen so many cubs and pups and young animals as we did this time. Maybe the champagne we started to drink at breakfast ( for good luck ) did work after all !

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You can still see it was an old hunting lodge

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The buffalo lounge where we meet before dinner

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Our bedroom with adjoining living room and his&hers bathrooms

Our first game drive started with a beautiful eagle, followed by a tiny elephant, this little one was so small it could easily walk under mums belly. It stumbled along, bumped into its mothers legs, tried to somehow use its trunk. We sat and watched for the longest time, totally adorable !

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MASHATU – Photo Workshop

Mashatu is in the Limpopo Valley, in the Tuli Block Game Reserve. That is on the eastern side of Botswana, like a big triangle jutting out into South Africa. It borders South Africa to its south-east and Zimbabwe to the north-east. We’ve been here before, little over a year ago. It was so absolutely fabulous that we had to come back, come back and share it with friends.

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Our new South African photography friends

So we booked a photo workshop with C4 Images, hoping to learn a little more and improve our photography. And we did ! Plus we made some new friends, we had a great time and really enjoyed our stay at the Mashatu tented camp.

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