Photo tour

POLAR BEARS AT 78°N

SVALBARD RE-LOADED

Halfway between the northern tip of Norway and the North Pole, at around 78°N lies the archipelago of Svalbard. It’s most famous and well known island is probably Spitzbergen, that’s where we started our tour.

The two of us, posing in front of the Virgo parked in the ice

We did this trip before, but crazy us, we wanted more ice, so this time we decided to go earlier, the middle of April. As we arrive in Longyearbjen there is definitely more snow and ice, and it is bloody cold. Temperatures are at -15°C and there is a strong wind blowing, chill factor double plus. That’s what you get ! 

We got what we wanted…

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SACRED MASKS OF BENIN

Sacred Masks and Voodoo Festival

with FROST PHOTO TOURS

Benin, West-Africa. Not your average tourist destination, that’s exactly what I like ! It is hot, it is humid, I have never sweated so much in my life, but it is sensational, so colorful, friendly and laid back easy, this country is very special and so totally cool. To be honest, before I traveled, I  had to look it up on the map, West Africa is big and has many countries….Now I know where it is, and will never forget !

Didn’t know much about Voodoo either, but we soon learned that Voodoo is a religion, not some scary cult. It is a peaceful way of life aligned with the natural elements. They have divinities like Christianity has angels and a God they call the Fa, and when they celebrate it is like the carnival in Brazil or Venice, with splendid dresses, tons of spectators and lots of music and ecstatic dancing.

I jumped at the chance and joined this cultural photo tour with Kirsten Frost. I am picked up at the airport by our driver Moise, (pronounce Moh-iz) in full body, extremely colorful dress. Just that made me smile, and I had really good hopes that this trip would become awesome, which it definitely did.

Welcome to Benin

In case you didn’t know where it is

DAY 1: GANVIÉ, GRAFFITI & THE AMAZONE

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FACES OF RAJASTHAN

A portrait masterclass with Pawel Lipski

 

I’ve always wanted to go to India. All these beautiful people with dark almond eyes and thick, dark, black hair, the colorful sari’s and intricate decorations on palaces, temples and fortresses. This must be heaven for a people photographer, which my husband isn’t, so I go alone, I just have to go ! 

The most beautiful people to photograph

DAY 1

After an 8 hrs flight I land in Delhi at 1 am or so. Now find the hotel’s driver between about 60 guys waving signs with names. After quite a while I find him in the far left corner, great, let’s go ! There is so much traffic even in the middle of the night, and all are hooting and driving like crazy, overtaking in spaces I didn’t believe there was space, and this guy is doing some funny shortcut, or am I on the way to some involuntary organ donor place ? No, all is good, we reach the SHANTI PALACE HOTEL, which isn’t really a palace but a hotel on a strip with lots of hotels and flashy signs, somewhat like the red light district, I don’t care, all I want is a bed.

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SAND LOVERS ONLY

A photographic tour into the Namib Desert

with Hougaard Malan

A trip into the sand, no roads, no tracks, just sand

I like crazy trips, extraordinary ones. So when I saw the photos from this trip last year, and had a chance to book a spot for this year, I jumped at it. Six nights of camping in the Namib Desert, no phones, no internet, no people for miles around but our little group. Jürg loves it for the astro-photography, no light pollution at all and an amazing African sky. I am in it for the experience, for the camping and just for the adventure, I will do travel photography. 

We take everything: water, petrol, food, tents, bedrolls, stretchers, firewood and booze. The latter we had to go shop ourselves, so we didn’t take along too much weight. Now what, and how much, do you drink in 6 days in the desert ? (except the water which was provided for). This led to an interesting trip to the supermarket. At the SPAR they asked us if we were having a party, so much alcohol…. Well, sort off. If we didn’t need any meat ? No the other guy is bringing the meat, we just need drinks. They helped us carry everything to the jeep, I’m not telling how much, but two guys helped us….in the end the whole SPAR knew us. Short extra stop at the liquor store for gin. Also very, very important ! Then to the hotel for our last night in „luxury“ and a super dinner at the Godenfang Restaurant. Tomorrow the adventure starts.

DAY 1

Briefing at 07:30, then breakfast. We leave at 10:00. It is a long driving day today, about 200km of desert lie ahead of us. We turn off the tarred road shortly after the airport, from now on it is sand only ! We drive in Convoy, 6 jeeps. In Nr 1 is Ruedi, who sets the tracks, in Nr 2 with driver Jandre, it’s Jürg and me and young Alex his assistant. Nr 3 is the girls car, 3 ladies and Mornay at the wheel, Nr 4 with driver Marius is the boys car with 2 guests, and Hougaard. Nr 5 is the camp chef Martinez, the best guy on the tour, and cook Andre. And in the back, Nr 6 is Dennis the concession guy, controlling us, so we behave, don’t fly drones and don’t litter.

The start of an adventure

The start of an adventure

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BEST OF BOTSWANA – a pangolin photo tour

CHOBE- OKAVANGO DELTA- KALAHARI

and meerkats and a helicopter

PART 1: THE CHOBE RIVER

ATTEMPTS TO TURN ME INTO A BIRDER

Around noon the plane lands in Kasane on Botswana’s northern border, Zim & Zam are mere miles away. As we approach the land below us is very green, great rivers and lots of flooded land, they must have had lots of rain here. As there are only about 30 people on the plane the arrival procedure is fast. On we go to the Pangolin Chobe Hotel, which is a famous photo hotel. Great photo pro’s there to assist and guide us, and big lenses for us to try out. Our trip is called the Best of Botswana Photo Safari, check it out here:  https://www.pangolinphoto.com/safaris/11-day-best-of-botswana-safari

The Pangolin Chobe Hotel

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CHASING AURORAS AND SUNNY MOMENTS

The ultimate Lofoten experience

A photo tour with Christian Hoiberg

Auroras or northern lights are hard to find. You preferably need to be way up north, better even to be above the polar circle, in a dark night without much light pollution, (meaning far away from everybody and everything). Then an aurora of 5+ on a scale of 10. Plus you need clear skies, which is probably the biggest problem.

Our first night here, and already an aurora

So we went to the Lofoten, way up in the north of Norway, in February. The trip was postponed twice because of covid, but when Norway opened up on Feb 12th 2022 and we were offered the  option to go on very short notice we said: yes please ! If this trip was meant to be, the good Lord could have given us a bit nicer weather though. We counted it all together, the sunny and not totally clouded times and we came to about 2 hrs in a whole week. We were told later that is pretty much the normal thing here, we were lucky. To be honest I’ve never had such lousy weather and in spite of that, such a fabulous  time !

Red cabins and cloudy skies, as always

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Madagascar

AN ISLAND FULL OF SURPRISES 

Usually all it takes is one photo. I see it, and my mind is made up, I want to go there. Madagascar has been on my mind for a while, and as I was told to go there rather sooner than later, well there’s no better time than right now. So we went on a photo tour with Oryx Photography, with  photographer Dale Morris and our Malagasy guide Nono Tianamalala. Between them these two guys made just about anything possible, and this trip one of my best photo holidays ever.

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PATAGONIA, a photo tour with Hougaard Malan, continued

Part 2: Chile

PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE

Mon 22: to Chile and Torres del Paine

It is a long and boring drive, the first 2,5 hrs so we simply sleep. We do a coffee stop at Estancia La Leona, the coffee is not too bad, and Jürg treats himself to a gigantic piece of lemon meringue pie, it is about 20cm high, no kidding ! Best of all, it really is good !

On the road again

This thing is huge, but look how happy he is !

From there 1,5 hours to Esperanza for more coffee and super good empanadas, freshly made and still warm. This sounds like a gourmet trip right ?

Another 2,5 hours gets us into Chile and to our hotel, the Hosteria Pehoe, probably the most scenic lodgings  in the whole park. It is located on a little island 100m off the shore of Lake Pehoe, and you can only reach it by a foot bridge. Drag along your own bags please, and do pray the bridge holds.

Pray the bridge holds our weight

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PATAGONIA, a photo tour with Hougaard Malan

Part 1: Argentina

Parque Nacional los Glaciares

This National Park was created in 1938 and declared a World Heritage Site in 1981. Its 726’900 hectares host 356 glaciers that cover a total ice surface of 2’600 km2. The beauty of lakes and mountains  combine with spectacular glaciers to shape a divine landscape. A photographers paradise you might say. So lets go see.

Hougaard Malan is the best landscape photographer I know. I’ve travelled with quite a few photographers, and each and every one taught me something, but from Hougaard I learnt most. So when he asked us if we wanted to come to Patagonia for 2 weeks in April, and gave us just about 2 days to think it over, it took us 2 minutes to say: yes please !

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Zambia, the hidden gem

A leopard a day keeps the doctor away !

We were in Zambia in 2011, nobody knew where it was…

Relaxing in a sausage tree

We returned 7 years later, still nobody knows where it is !

I believe it is the best kept secret in Africa, this country is a gem, with beautiful national parks, lots of wildlife, gorgeous lodges and friendly people. I promised in 2011 I’d return and I am so happy I did ! The first night we stayed in Lusaka at the very cool trendy, funky Latitude 15, it’s like living in an art gallery. This is the place to stay !  and ist only 30 min from the airport in the  quiet suburb of Kabulonga.

Our safari in South Luangwa

We spent 4 nights at Mfuwe lodge then 4 at Chindeni camp

This time we travelled in the company of some good friends, and our pro-photographer Isak Pretorius, who was once again willing to share some of his secrets with us, show us his favourite place, and help us get even better pictures than last time. That part should be easy because last time we were still shooting on fully automatic and didn’t have a clue about photography.

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When the desert turns green

Namibia in the “RAINY SEASON”

Well it’s not all that rainy,  just a lot of clouds and thunderstorms building up, we only got rained on once… or twice, and it usually clears real quick. The good thing is that the backgrounds are simply amazing with all these clouds !

Ready to capture some nice clouds !

That is, as long as we had them… which was just about during our first week.

But then, we really needed clear skies for the night shots at the quiver tree forest, so all turned out rather well this holiday if I may say.

Quiver trees at night

And the company was brilliant of course, us doing a private tour with Hougaard Malan and his lovely girlfriend Marlee, who turned out to be my favourite model !

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Expedition Ethiopia, I’m in love

 What do you believe Ethiopia is like ?

I expected poverty, drought and  famine, a landscape somewhat like the Greek Islands, barren and empty. No way ! The Omo Valley in the south west of Ethiopia took me by surprise. It has mountains like Switzerland, is lush and green like the Caribbean, colourful like India and friendly as only Africa can be.

Roads can be challenging but most are rather good

To the Suri Tribe, but getting there takes some effort !

It takes us 3 days to get to our first photo destination. The first day we fly from Addis to Jimma. I’ve decided that I like this place. Horses stand smack in the middle of the street, we must drive around them, there are goats and cows, donkey wagons, people walk along the road, not just one, no dozens.  It is poor but absolutely  exiting, colourful, green and  exotic !

It’s Africa and I love it.

Roadside scenes

Remembers me of the Caribbean

The second day we drive for 9 hours till we reach Mezan Teferi. First stop after 2 hours (of very slow driving) at the home of a family which welcomes us in their hut. Unbelievable, they live here with 10 people, plus at night all the cattle comes in as well. The hut is maybe 20m2. Second stop at another family, they pose just as happily, but even better, they make us coffee, and I mean coffee straight from the beans. First they roast, then they grind, then pour water. It is awful strong, the spoon almost stands straight up, but  I rather like it.

The Ethiopian coffee is sensational

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Meet me in the Mara

 MASAI MARA PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARI

Ready for the wildebeest migration

I love this landscape of rolling hills, big plains dotted with lonely trees, an escarpment in the background, rivers like green snakes winding through, and crossing these rivers, especially one big river called the Mara, is the wildebeest migration, and that’s what we are here for.

Wildebeest crossing

Our camp is lovely, situated on the bank of the Mara River at a bend, so maybe if we’re lucky we’ll get a private crossing right in front of camp. Check out the webpage : www.entim-mara.com. Before we leave for our first gamedrive a dazzle of zebra gather on the little flat plain just across camp. Will they cross ? Good thing we didn’t wait, they told us the next morning they crossed at 03:30, would have been a long wait !

Our very big and comfortable tent

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GOING GREEN…

ZIMBABWE’S MANA POOLS in the green season

So here we go, 5 days in Mana Pools in a mobile camp. It will be set up for us, and after we leave there will be no traces of us ever having been there. Leave only foot prints, take only photo’s. And that’s exactly what we are going to do ! Beware :  don’t try any of the things we do here in any other place in Africa, this is not a “normal safari”!

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And this is what it is all about

DAY 1 : WHEN THE TOUGH GET GOING

At noon we reach Harare. We get a visa for 30$ each, then move on to domestic departures. We then wait in the very old, very worn down, and very deserted departure hall, what better to do than have our first G&T.

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First round of G&T

Another 1hr flight, this time in a 14-seater, gets us to a dirt airstrip in the middle of no where. It is deserted. The camp manager from nearby Chikwenya Camp comes to pick us up, our Humphrey is no where to be seen and we can’t reach him or the camp, not on phone or sat phone, this is weird. We relax on the deck, enjoy the brilliant view, have a few beers, watch a small herd of elephants walk by. At 17:30 we decide to spend the night here, not that we have much of a choice without a jeep and driver ….

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10 REASONS TO VISIT ICELAND IN WINTER

Because we liked Iceland so much …

Here are 10 reasons to visit Iceland in winter:

1. Reykjavik, the smallest capital city in the world. A small town with a big soul.

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Harpa, the concert hall

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ICY ICELAND continues

ICY ICELAND – WEEK 2

Our trip continues, the start of week 2. Will it be as good as the first week ? Will we see more auroras ? One more day in JÖKULSARLON, one more go at the beach, one more ice cave, then we move on to the highlands and into the cold.

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Ice cave nr.2

DAY 8

As usual our plans change, so does the weather, it is snowing again as we go for breakfast, damn, damn, damn. At 9:00 we do decide to give it a go. At the beach there are only about 4 pieces of ice in the water, so we decide to go to the lagoon. We climb to the lookout point and get some lovely shots of the lagoon all covered in a fresh layer of snow. We move to a second spot, the light on the mountains in the back gets better. We even stay when a snow storm hits us, we are the hardcore landscape photographers.

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ICY ICELAND

ICY ICELAND – WEEK 1

A PHOTO TOUR

with Hougaard Malan & Isak Pretorius

There are no direct flights to Reykjavik for us in winter, because all the “normal” people go there in summer. We leave on January 29th, the sun will rise at around 10:00 and set at 17:00 and won’t get higher than 10 degrees above the horizon. The bad thing is we can’t pronounce any of the names of the places we are going to see, and we’ll barely have 9 hrs of light per day. The good thing is we can do sunrise shots and sleep late.

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And this is what we want to see

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