A leopard a day keeps the doctor away !

We were in Zambia in 2011, nobody knew where it was…

We returned 7 years later, still nobody knows where it is !

I believe it is the best kept secret in Africa, this country is a gem, with beautiful national parks, lots of wildlife, gorgeous lodges and friendly people. I promised in 2011 I’d return and I am so happy I did ! The first night we stayed in Lusaka at the very cool trendy, funky Latitude 15, it’s like living in an art gallery. This is the place to stay !  and ist only 30 min from the airport in the  quiet suburb of Kabulonga.

Our safari in South Luangwa

This time we travelled in the company of some good friends, and our pro-photographer Isak Pretorius, who was once again willing to share some of his secrets with us, show us his favourite place, and help us get even better pictures than last time. That part should be easy because last time we were still shooting on fully automatic and didn’t have a clue about photography.

After arriving at Mfuwe airport a little later than planned,  we drove to the Mfuwe Lodge in the dark and it was only the next morning we got to do our first game drive. But what a start ! Barely a kilometer from camp we found a herd of impala, the air was filled with alarm cries and they were all staring in that one direction, yes ! A leopard had just killed one of them, we missed it by minutes if not seconds. Which was quite good because there was no blood and disgusting intestines all over the place.

I believe the poor leopard got fed up with the loads of cars that had by now arrived and she went down a gulley to have some peace. When she came up again to eat some more, we got lovely shots in perfect light. Staying at the Mfuwe lodge in the central part oft he South Luangwa National Park was great, they spoilt us  with special bush brunches and lovely food, the rooms were big and comfortable. The only downside here being a lot of vehicles at the good sightings and no off road driving. The lodge was great and the central location was a benefit for sure. By the way, this is the place where in November the elephants walk through the lobby to get to the mango tree in the courtyard.

The next few days we saw elephants, puku and impala, wild dogs (though just very briefly), hippo’s in the lagoon beside the lodge and in the Luangwa river, baboons and buffalo, waterbucks and kudu. Traveling and photographing a lot we are getting pickier every time, we want special stuff, not just a sitting lion, a sleeping leopard, a close up elephant, we want backgrounds, action and interaction. And we got it all.

After 4 nights here we moved south to one of the bushcamps called Chindeni camp. Driving there we saw almost nothing, but the one sighting driving to Chindeni was my absolute favourite of the whole trip: a lioness with 3 cubs ! That made up for all the driving and seeing nothing ten times over !

Once near Chindeni it was even beter than up north. A pride of lions under a tree as we approach camp, and dozens of elephants at the lagoon, this is heaven ! It is an absolutely divine camp, with magnificent tents, super views, a superfriendly staff  and the very best chef in the park. All this located on a lagoon filled with red and green algea which seemed to be competing for the extremest colourshade.

 

Elephants and impala and waterbuck are frequently coming to drink. The «a leopard a day» continued here, we saw them in just about every position and motion, going up a tree, coming down, sleeping, in the bright daylight and in the dark with just a spotlight on them, in the forest, in the bush, in the open. Backlit, frontlit, sidelit, you name it.

The local lionpride with 2  cute cubs moved on but we found others, we saw elephants with lovely background forests, enjoyed the riverside scenery and even left a leopard to go see hyenas and vultures feast on a dead elephant. The quality oft he sightings was really really good.

They even surprised us with a pizza lunch, imagine making your own pizza out in the bush at the most remarkable setting. This pizza just had to be the best ever !

Just the bee eaters didn’t quite co-operate so we did a slightly longer sundowner instead. The sundowners here are very cool ! We had a great time and got home with lots of beautiful photos and wonderful memories.

Thank you Zambia, in a way I want the world to know how great this country is, but then……

I also really want to keep the secret to myself. I am sure I will return once again !

to see our favourite photos: go to gallery

Copyright photo and text: Astrid Bluemel for bluemelphoto.ch